If there's one thing Philadelphians love almost as much as Philly cheesesteaks, it's arguing about cheesesteaks - what constitutes a great one, what renders one inauthentic, and what ingredients are vital or verboten. Like Bologna with its profoundly strict interpretation of ragu alla Bolognese or New Jersey's defiant attachment to a sloppy Joe entirely unlike what the rest of America recognizes as a sloppy Joe, certain foods inspire combative opinions in the places that birthed them -- and Philadelphia's favorite sandwich is no exception. One abiding controversy is what precisely puts the cheese in cheesesteak, and for some, there is only one answer - Cooper Sharp.
First, the basics: The cheesesteak is an elegant amalgamation of beef, cheese, bread, and onions (but not, as many Philadelphians will be happy to explain to you, bell peppers). The cheesesteak has its origins in 1930, when Italian-American hot dog vendor Pat Olivieri decided to try something new. Per National Geographic, after Olivieri grilled some beef scraps and onions and stuffed it into a hot dog bun, a nearby cabdriver ordered one as well. After consuming it, the customer suggested that Olivieri "forget 'bout those hot dogs, you should sell these." This may have been the first and the last time two Philadelphians agreed about the sandwich that would become the cheesesteak.
Philadelphians
The cheese would be added some years later, after Olivieri opened his own restaurant, and its manager 'Cocky Joe' Lorenzo decided to add provolone to the sandwich. Since then, the argument over what cheese to employ has been one of the many simmering controversies surrounding the cheesesteak. While many favor Cheez Whiz, a strong contingent argues it must be Cooper Sharp, a pasteurized, processed cheese that, like most American cheese, melts beautifully without splitting while maintaining its titular sharp taste.
forget 'bout those hot dogs, you should sell these.
The wider picture
With meat and seafood, the gap between a good result and a disappointing one is usually decided before cooking starts: provenance, cut, storage and temperature.
The short version
- The basics: The cheesesteak is an elegant amalgamation of beef, cheese, bread
- The cheese would be added some years later, after Olivieri opened his own restaurant
Questions worth asking
What should you know about Olivieri?
The cheesesteak has its origins in 1930, when Italian-American hot dog vendor Pat Olivieri decided to try something new.
What happens next?
the basics: The cheesesteak is an elegant amalgamation of beef, cheese, bread, and onions (but not, as many Philadelphians will be happy to explain to you, bell peppers).
In short
How this plays out at the butcher counter will take time to become clear. For now it is a development worth following rather than judging.
