KUALA LUMPUR, March 19 -- On the rare occasions when I'm willing to make the effort for breakfast on a weekday, I almost never stray from a steady, familiar rotation of regular haunts.

But when a tip comes from the chef and patron of one of Malaysia's pre-eminent restaurants -- I'm not telling -- it feels less like a suggestion and more like a social and professional obligation to follow up, which is how I found myself at Jaipur Curry House in TTDI at about half past nine in the morning.

Jaipur Curry House has been part of the neighbourhood for 32 years and is probably best known for its banana leaf offerings at lunch.

Today, though, I was here for a breakfast item served from 6.30am to 11.30am: the Jaipur Special Uttapam with Egg (RM11.20).

Curry House

If you've never had an uttapam before, it's a thicker style of dosa, closer to a pancake than a crepe, and typically topped with various ingredients.

Mine arrived with an egg, shredded carrot, onions, plenty of fresh coriander and a generous dusting of the good stuff.

What is the good stuff, you ask? Like many of the more habit-forming pleasures, it comes in the form of a potent powder.

Gunpowder, or podi masala as it's also known, is what makes this particular uttapam so enjoyable.

The bigger picture

The soft, slightly sour texture of the fermented batter plays its part, as does the crisp edge, along with the sambar and two chutneys -- the tomato chutney is a sweet standout -- but it's this brightly coloured powder that dials everything up to 11.

Though I forgot to ask for extra podi, as my tip had specifically advised, a little of this stuff goes a long way.

Made from dried chillies, roasted lentils and a blend of other spices, it delivers that trademark savoury, gently spicy depth that elevates a simple uttapam into something remarkable.

Somewhat unbelievably, it was the second part of the tip that truly intrigued me.

How it all adds up

In addition to the special uttapam, I was told I would find what my source regards as "the most satisfying curry puff in the country, thus far."

Sky-high praise for the humble, ubiquitous curry puff. I've had plenty of bad ones in my time, so I was curious to see if this lived up to the hype.

But I hit a roadblock: in the three hours since opening, they had already sold out of the chicken variant, leaving only the vegetarian curry puff (RM1.60). My scepticism only grew.

What makes a curry puff truly satisfying? Is it a light, flaky pastry? A mildly spicy, thick filling? The sheer amount of filling? In this case, it was all three.

The details that count

Lightly spicy, packed with potatoes and onions, I loved every bite. I think I need to start waking up earlier, even if just for these curry puffs.

the most satisfying curry puff in the country, thus far.

Why this lands now

Menus are the clearest record of what diners actually wanted, since every change reflects something that did or did not sell.

At a glance

  • KUALA LUMPUR, March 19 -- On the rare occasions when I'm willing to make the effort for breakfast on a weekday, I almost never stray from a steady, familiar rotation of regular haunts
  • Jaipur Curry House has been part of the neighbourhood for 32 years and is probably best known for its banana leaf offerings at lunch
  • Today, though, I was here for a breakfast item served from 6.30am to 11.30am: the Jaipur Special Uttapam with Egg (RM11.20)
  • If you've never had an uttapam before, it's a thicker style of dosa, closer to a pancake than a crepe, and typically topped with various ingredients
  • Gunpowder, or podi masala as it's also known, is what makes this particular uttapam so enjoyable

All told

The details will firm up over the coming months. What is already clear is that this is unlikely to be the last we hear of it.