Yet, for me, as a child of the Delaware Valley; the humble Philly cheesesteak is perhaps its finest gift to the world.

So when I heard that a joint called Philly Express in Buchanan Galleries was serving the hometown favourite, I knew I had to try it out.

Philadelphians will know that there are four components to a great cheesesteak; thinly-sliced rib-eye, gooey cheese (provolone, sharp cheddar, or cheese wizz), grilled onions, and a soft bread roll.

I have tried any number of less-than-authentic cheesesteaks during my five years in Scotland, each failing to encapsulate that nostalgic feeling.

Delaware Valley

My culinary palate has no room for pretentious gobbledygook. Authenticity matters.

So I must admit that I was slightly suspicious of Philly Express as I rode the escalator to the second floor of the Buchanan Galleries on Wednesday afternoon.

Young people jostled for position at the front of a lengthy queue, eager to sample the delights on sale: namely, dirty sodas, Texas toast, loaded fries, and chicken tenders -- none of which have anything to do with Philadelphia.

Yet, I know enough not to judge on first impressions, so into the queue I went.

Philly Express in Buchanan Galleries. (Image: NQ)

Philly Express

A painstaking twenty minutes later, it was time for me to put my gnashers around a "Classic Philly Cheesesteak", £9.50 in total.

My first bite was one of pure bliss; a beautiful symphony of bread, cheese, and meat -- my second was less euphoric, as the bread roll containing this masterpiece collapsed, plunging the steaming contents onto the red plastic tray below.

And therein lies my conclusion.

On taste alone, Philly Express' cheesesteak was best I have sampled in Scotland.

Classic Philly

Across the entire UK, Philly bar Passyunk Avenue in London clears by a wide margin.

As Philadelphian foodies well know, the cheesesteak roll is one of the most important parts of our regional dish.

Too soft, and the meat and cheese will bleed through. Too hard, and you'll be choking on a mound of bread.

The former was unfortunately my experience, as I was forced to scrape beef, cheese and onions from a tin foil wrap; my roll used to sop up the offal.

UK Philly

Still, it tasted like home, and that has to count for something.

I must admit that I was slightly suspicious of Philly Express as I rode the escalator to the second floor of the Buchanan Galleries on Wednesday afternoon.

Where this fits

Dining rooms change slowly and then all at once: a new chef, a refurbishment, a shift in the neighbourhood, and suddenly the place has a different identity.

At a glance

  • Yet, for me, as a child of the Delaware Valley; the humble Philly cheesesteak is perhaps its finest gift to the world
  • When I heard that a joint called Philly Express in Buchanan Galleries was serving the hometown favourite, I knew I had to try it out
  • Philadelphians will know that there are four components to a great cheesesteak; thinly-sliced rib-eye, gooey cheese (provolone, sharp cheddar, or cheese wizz), grilled onions
  • I have tried any number of less-than-authentic cheesesteaks during my five years in Scotland, each failing to encapsulate that nostalgic feeling
  • My culinary palate has no room for pretentious gobbledygook

Common questions

What should you know about Philly Express?

when I heard that a joint called Philly Express in Buchanan Galleries was serving the hometown favourite, I knew I had to try it out.

Why does it matter?

As Philadelphian foodies well know, the cheesesteak roll is one of the most important parts of our regional dish.

What happens next?

Philadelphians will know that there are four components to a great cheesesteak; thinly-sliced rib-eye, gooey cheese (provolone, sharp cheddar, or cheese wizz), grilled onions, and a soft bread roll.

In short

Whether this marks the start of something larger or simply reflects the moment, it is a fair indication of the direction things are heading.